- Published on Thursday, 03 January 2013 01:18
Happy New Year! Wish you all a lot of good weather and power!
Well, I had great times in the past ten days, despite a lot of bad weather. In bouldering aspect I was able to climb a lot of easier boulders and even do some first ascents, although not sure how hard they should be, since I couldn't go outside bouldering due to lack of time and bad weather. Also all boulders in the big cave were wet, which was actually the reason to concentrate on the small roof. So besides doing some known and only partially wet boulders in the bigger cave like Skip the Crux, Stoned Ascent, Cheech and Chong etc. I spend almost 7 days on the smaller roof climbing almost anything possible since I wasn't familiar with the definitions there. Later on I met some local, who showed me topo and suggested that some of my ideas turned out to be kind of "first ascents", despite skipping the process of finding and cleaning the boulders (I was already wondering, why there is no chalk on some holds and some crimps were not brushed). Overall, I am very happy I could touch stone again and feel again great like in my first bouldering days!
To provide some info about some of the cool (in my humble opinion) boulders, click the image below:
- Trockenes Geschenk 7C - blue star straight line. Start with the arrow left and traverse downstairs to the right without using the fat stone of course. Then go diagonally to the both marked jugs, without cutting the line with the other jugs to the right of the stars or traversing underneath and to spare the crimps on the line. (Climbed that line with newly chalked crimps for better beta). I had the luck to fall couple of times at the end in different days, so luckily I fell, because I came later on to the idea to capture the boulder with my phone:
- Leichteres Geschenk 7B+ - exit direct after doing the traverse
- Türringer Traverse 7B - start with the stars and exit Türringer by Dirk Uhlig
- Türringer Traverse Right 7B - start with the stars, do the fat move to the sloper band and exit right
- ? 6C+ - start with the foothold, which is used for the traverses (right to the stars just above the line), and then do long move to the crimps, then to the sloper and finish the right green diagonal
- Spaziergang 7A - start in the right end of the roof (near the blue edge) reach to exit and do the middle traverse from right to left and exit
- ? 7? - start in the right end of the roof (near the blue edge) and do the low traverse to the left and exit ("open")
- Geschenk 7A+ - do Trockenes Geschenk without the traverse part starting in the right end of the roof (near the blue edge)
- TST 7? - The S Traverse starts left from the stars, traverses to the right, then reaches to the middle, where it traverses to the left and then traverses on the jugs upstairs far to the right to an obvious jug pretty high ("open" since I had no time and pads to try this, of course wasn't that psyched for traversing stuff with ~30 moves, but if the weather is bad again I'll do it!)
There are of course some boulders that are no worth mention, meaning that they are even more stupid than the above listed :D
Note that some of the grades might not be accurate since I haven't climbed outside for a long time plus being a bit overweight these days :D I'll be happy to receive feedback to correct them! So for now, please climb and send me feedback :)